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Rick Owens – Geobasket sneakers, Ramones & Stooges leather
Brand snapshot
Rick Owens builds a world of elongated coats, leather jackets, engineered cargo trousers, and heavy‑soled sneakers that reset proportion. On the rail: Bauhaus Stooges in calf or lamb, Creatch cargos in jersey or denim, Beatle Bozo Tractor boots, Geobasket and Ramones sneakers. Fabrics are dense and dry‑hand; shapes run long, dropped, and deliberate. The mood reads brutal and elegant at once.
Silhouette & construction
Outerwear: strict line, controlled weight
Shoulders are dropped, sleeves slim. Coats fall in clean columns with high vents and funnel or shawl collars. Leather bikers are cropped and tight through the arm; offset zips and Bauhaus pockets map the body without bulk.
Trousers: utility with discipline
Creatch Cargo uses layered pockets and strap details on a drawstring waist. Bauhaus Cargo sharpens the idea with rounded, zippered thigh pockets and exposed “Bela” zips. Pods shorts sit low with a rounded gusset; volume lives in the rise, not the hem.
Knit and jersey: drape as structure
Compact rib crews, long tanks, and stretch‑jersey dresses hold shape yet skim the frame. Lilies pieces lean on bias cuts and cowl necks to build movement without added seams.
Footwear: platform logic
Beatle Bozo Tractors are elastic‑gored chelseas on sculpted tractor soles. Geobaskets run above the ankle with extended tongues, side zips, and shark‑tooth or creeper bottoms. Ramones bring a squared rubber toe and flatform stance in leather or canvas. Laces, toe caps, and sole profiles act as signatures more than decoration.
Materials & finish
Leathers
Calf and lamb dominate jackets and shoes. Expect finishes from smooth full‑grain to blistered lamb. Some jackets use veg‑tanned cowhide; tamponatura finishing is applied by hand so the black topcoat will soften and abrade with wear, revealing tone beneath. That patina is intentional and unique to each piece.
Denim, jersey, poplin
DRKSHDW deploys 13 oz overdyed denim for sneakers and pants, compact cotton jersey for cargos and tees, and crisp cotton poplin for shorts and trousers. Tech faille and cotton canvas appear where the garment needs snap and memory.
Soles and hardware
Shark‑tooth bumpers, creeper soles, and angular tractor treads define traction and stance. Zips are heavy gauge; “Bela” center zips and rounded Bauhaus pockets recur across pants and jackets.
Signatures & icons
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Bauhaus Stooges jacket: cropped biker with off‑center zip and multi‑pocket grid.
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Creatch Cargo: layered front pockets with strap detailing on a drawstring waist.
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Bauhaus Cargo: slim leg, rounded zip pockets at thigh, Bela zip at front.
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Pods shorts: low rise, dropped crotch, rounded gusset.
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Geobasket: high top with extended tongue, inside zip, geometric paneled upper.
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Ramones: squared rubber toe, low or high, leather or canvas.
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Beatle Bozo Tractor: elastic chelsea with sculpted heel counter and tractor sole.
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Converse x DRKSHDW: square‑toe DRKSTAR and TURBODRK variants, elongated tongues, custom rubber tooling.
How to wear it now
Weekday
Bauhaus Cargo in cotton poplin with a compact rib crew. Add Low Sneaks and a long coat. Keep the column clean; let the Bela zip add edge.
Evening
Bauhaus Stooges over a long tank and bias‑cut skirt or flared trouser. Switch to Beatle Bozo Tractors. Zip the cuff vents to streamline the arm.
Weekend
Rick’s Pods with a Level tee and Geobaskets. Open the collar on a minimal bomber. Choose milk soles to lighten black layers.
Travel
Creatch Cargo in jersey for stretch on long days. Layer a hooded coat over a thin knit. Ramones for easy on/off via side zip.
Fit & sizing notes
Coats/jackets: Shoulders drop; sleeves run lean. Take your normal size for the intended long, narrow line. Size up only if layering heavy knits.
Trousers/shorts: Drawstring waists give tolerance. Creatch fits straight to relaxed; Bauhaus is slimmer through the shin; Pods are roomy in rise with a neater leg opening.
Knit/jersey: Close to body, long through torso and sleeve. Lilies dresses hug then release at hem.
Footwear: Profiles feel long. Many wear EU true‑to‑size in leather Low Sneaks and a half to one size down in some high‑tops; Geobasket and Ramones vary by material and insole padding. When between sizes, consult the season’s size chart and consider the sock weight you’ll use.
Care & longevity
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Leather jackets: Brush off dust. Spot clean with a slightly damp cloth. Avoid heat and solvent cleaners. Veg‑tan and tamponatura finishes will mark and burnish; this is the point. Store on wide hangers, away from direct light.
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Jersey/denim/canvas: Wash cold, inside out; line dry to preserve color, coatings, and hand.
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Footwear: Wipe leather with a damp cloth; treat sparingly with neutral cream if needed. Keep rubber toes and bumpers clean with mild soap; avoid bleach. Rubber will oxidize over time; storage away from heat and UV slows yellowing.
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Resoling: Tractor and bumper soles can be resoled or re‑bottomed by skilled cobblers, but expect a visual change from the original tooling. Document wear before work.
Heritage & today
Rick Owens founded his label in Los Angeles in 1994 and relocated to Paris in 2003. He designs and produces closely with Italy, centered on a factory in Concordia, Veneto. The brand shows on the Paris calendar; recent chapters include SS25 Hollywood and FW25 Concordians. Lines include the main collection, DRKSHDW (launched 2005, denim/jersey‑driven), RICKOWENSLILIES (womenswear with stretch‑jersey drape), and HUNRICKOWENS (objects and special projects). Long‑running footwear icons—Geobasket and Ramones—sit beside ongoing collaborations like Converse x DRKSHDW. Many core sneakers and leathers are made in Italy.
Responsibility
Owens communicates progress in product notes rather than manifestos. You’ll see LWG‑rated tanneries referenced on footwear pages, FSC‑certified viscose in select Lilies jerseys, and an Eco‑Aware landing that groups lower‑impact materials. Most apparel, bags, and footwear are made in Italy in controlled runs. The brand still uses animal‑derived materials; evaluate impact by composition and wear frequency.