Filters
A point of view you can wear
Comme des Garçons is a study in silhouette and idea made tangible. On the rail: sculptural coats, deconstructed blazers, pleated skirts, knitwear that shifts volume, crisp poplin shirts, and grounded footwear from derbies to Mary Janes. Bags and small accessories provide clean punctuation rather than decoration. The house makes clothing, footwear, and bags that change how a wardrobe moves.
Silhouette & Construction
Volume as structure
Rei Kawakubo’s clothes often start with shape rather than print. Expect dropped shoulders, cocoon coats that curve around the body, bubble and bustle volumes, and tailored pieces cut to stand slightly away from the frame. Seams might be external or raw-edged by design, turning construction into surface.
Tailoring that rethinks balance
Jackets may shift buttons off center, split panels, or graft pleated skirts onto suiting cloth. Trousers can run wide and straight with a clean break, or narrow with architectural taper. For menswear, Homme Plus brings experimental patterning to classical fabrics, creating suits that hold their line while introducing unexpected voids and protrusions.
Movement considered
Even the most sculptural looks are engineered to move. Armholes sit where mobility demands; inset pleats open in motion; layered tulle and jersey hold their bounce without collapsing. Weight is calibrated so volume reads intentional, not heavy.
Materials & Finish
The fabric toolbox
Core materials include Japanese wool gabardine, dense felts, compact jersey, crisp cotton poplin, puckered synthetics, tulle, bonded knits, and technical blends. Fabrics are chosen for their ability to hold a curve or drape in clean planes. Shirts favor fine poplins and stripes; knitwear explores tension and loft; outerwear leans on tightly woven wools that cut wind yet breathe.
Surface language
Color often sits in black, navy, ivory, and red, then spikes to brights in select pieces. Techniques range from hand-feel finishes that are almost chalky to high-shine patents and mirror foils in accessories. When prints appear, they serve an idea: polka dots, collage florals, or scaled logos, always placed with intention.
Signatures & Icons
Recognizable codes, used sparingly
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Deconstruction: seams outside, linings turned into facings, garments that reveal their making.
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Body Meets Dress: volumetric play that adds or subtracts mass away from expected zones.
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Comme des Garçons SHIRT: poplin-led offshoot that elevates stripes and crisp shirting.
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PLAY heart: the Filip Pagowski heart emblem on jersey basics that layer into everyday looks.
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Homme Plus: men’s runway line where tailoring meets concept each season.
These codes thread through seasons, tying new ideas back to the house’s language.
How to Wear It Now
Weekday clarity
Anchor a sculptural black wool coat over a crisp striped shirt and wide-leg trousers. Finish with chunky derby shoes and a clean leather crossbody. The volume reads strong while the palette stays focused.
Evening with intent
Choose a structured black dress with asymmetrical drape. Add Mary Janes and a compact shoulder bag in patent for a controlled flash. Keep jewelry minimal to let cut and proportion lead.
Weekend ease
Pull on a PLAY heart tee under an oversized blazer with straight jeans and trainers. A nylon tote and a pebbled leather card case keep the line relaxed but considered.
Travel light
Layer a compact knit under a cocoon coat with tapered trousers. A long-sleeve tee and packable tulle skirt offer mix-and-match range; a long zip wallet and slip-on shoes speed transitions.
Fit & Sizing Notes
The general rule
Comme des Garçons often plays with proportion. Many outerwear and statement pieces are intentionally oversized; shirts in the SHIRT line tend to run true; PLAY tees are cut on the slim side, and many opt to size up for a relaxed fit. Homme Plus tailoring balances experimental patterning with a firm shoulder and regular sleeve length.
Practical details
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Coats: expect room through the body; sleeve length usually classic.
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Dresses/skirts: volumes can be dramatic but are engineered to hang clean; check waist placement.
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Trousers: wide and straight cuts dominate; hems are often unfinished or long enough to tailor.
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Shoes: derbies and Mary Janes follow standard EU sizing; sneaker collaborations may run large for some, so many choose a half size down.
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Bags: crossbodies sit close to the body with adjustable straps; totes favor structured bases.
Care & Longevity
Keep structure intact
Brush wool regularly, spot clean with cool water, and air between wears. Avoid over-pressing shaped seams; steam lightly from the inside to protect volume. Tulle and delicate synthetics prefer gentle hand wash or specialist cleaning in mesh bags.
Prints and finishes
Protect foils, patents, and coated surfaces from abrasion. For shirts, wash cool and line dry to preserve crispness. Store sculptural pieces with space so pleats and volume don’t flatten.
Heritage & Today
Why it matters now
Founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, Comme des Garçons has shown in Paris since the early 1980s and continues to set the conversation around form. The brand’s family includes lines such as Homme Plus, SHIRT, PLAY, and Wallet, each translating the house’s thinking for different contexts. Collaborations surface where they serve an idea, not trend-chasing, and the runway remains a laboratory that informs wearable pieces on the rail.
Responsibility
The house focuses on longevity through design: robust wools, compact poplins, and construction that can be altered or repaired. Many garments are produced in Japan with strict quality standards, and accessories are sourced where craft is strongest. The most sustainable choice here is to select pieces you will wear frequently and maintain with care.