Justin Gall

Rome-built and future-focused, Justin Gall cuts technical outerwear, engineered trousers, and angular eyewear that behave like a system on the body. You’ll find coated cotton parkas with sculptural hoods, cargo pants with 3D “units” and expansion pleats, and Mongrel boots on blackout Vibram soles. The palette reads charcoal to earth, punctuated by hand‑painted, water‑based work lifted from the designer’s studio practice. Production is tight, Italian, and iterative—each season advancing the same modular language.

Silhouette & construction

Outerwear: protective volume, precise control

Gall’s outerwear builds shelter first, then edits the line. Shawl‑collared parkas extend into zip‑through hoods for full coverage; sleeves run long with snap cinches to trap heat and temper volume. Patterns favor ergonomic curves through the shoulder and side body so bulk moves cleanly. Expect concealed entries at hand level and 3D zip pockets that sit off the torso, keeping weight distributed.

Trousers: engineered ease

Denim or crisp cotton‑nylon bases carry cargo logic forward. You’ll see regular rises balanced by thigh volume, knee expansion pleats for mobility, and hems that flare slightly then cinch via snaps. Pocket maps are intentional: waist pockets for quick access, patch cargos at thigh and rear, plus micro “quick‑drop” zips at the back right for transit cards or keys.

Knitwear and shirts: texture as structure

Ribbed crews and distressed knits add vertical motion under heavier shells, while cargo shirts in cracked or checkered cloth introduce lightweight storage without the bulk of a vest. Stitching alternates between reinforcement and restraint so the piece hangs clean and breaks in with wear.

Materials & finish

Coated cotton, built for weather

The Bodybag Parka uses cotton cloth coated in matte polyurethane. The finish gives wind resistance, a dry hand, and a subtle sheen that reads architectural rather than glossy. Inside, low‑weight dobby linings in lyocell‑cotton blends keep the garment breathable against skin.

Crisp cotton‑nylon for movement

A 60/40 cotton‑nylon twill shows up in “Overflow” cargos. Enzyme texture washing softens the face without sacrificing the fabric’s snap, so pleats articulate and the leg keeps its line through a day of wear.

Stretch denim with discipline

Gall’s stretch denim (around 280 gsm) carries elastane for recovery yet stays structured, making multi‑pocket layouts and knee pleats sit flat until activated.

Footwear and eyewear: hard goods, refined

Mongrel boots use a vegan polyurethane upper with matte TPU reinforcements at toe and heel. Underfoot, a blackout Vibram EVA platform reads heavy but wears light, with rubber contact zones for traction on wet pavement. Eyewear spans acetate frames and titanium “micro” silhouettes—UV400 polarized nylon lenses in brushed titanium give a high‑contrast, lightweight feel that pairs cleanly with the brand’s monochrome kit.

Signatures & icons

• Bodybag Parka: knee‑length, shawl‑to‑hood zip closure, off‑body 3D pockets with dual entrances.

• Overflow/Unit trousers: regular top block with articulated knees, snap‑cinch hems, and carefully placed 3D zip units.

• Mongrel boots: geometric quarters, asymmetrical zip expansion, three‑loop rear pull with lace wrap channel on a blackout Vibram EVA sole.

• 3/4 Micro Shades: titanium frame with the upper quarter of the lens cut, a compact, futurist silhouette designed to sit tight to the face.

How to wear it now

Weekday, desk to studio

Overflow Cargo Trouser + Stacked Cargo Shirt. Add the titanium Micro Shades. Keep the hem snaps open at the desk; cinch them before you bike home.

Evening, industrial calm

Bodybag Parka over a distressed rib crew and slim denim. Zip the hood up partway so the shawl frames the face; finish with Mid Mongrel boots.

Weekend, gallery loop

Stone‑wash field shorts with a matte‑coated bomber. Let color come from a hand‑painted tee or print scarf; sunglasses in acetate keep it casual.

Travel, carry‑on solve

11‑Unit Max Denim Trouser for pocket discipline; light knit and a compact anorak. Snap hems for security checks, unsnap for the plane.

Fit & sizing notes

Coats/parkas: Intended oversized through body and sleeve for layering. Take your normal size for the designed silhouette; size down if you want a closer shoulder and shorter sleeve.

Trousers: Regular through the top block with a slight relaxed flare at hem; elastic or drawcord waists on cotton‑nylon builds offer tolerance. Go true to size for intended volume; size down if between sizes and you prefer a neater leg.

Shirts/knits: Standard to relaxed. Distressed knits run intentionally long in sleeve; ribbing settles after a few wears.

Footwear: EU sizing with an ergonomic ankle curve. The Vibram EVA platform is light; the last reads standard. High insteps may prefer roomier lacing; if you’re wide, check the brand’s measurements before committing.

Eyewear: Titanium micro frames sit close and narrow. One size; best on small to medium head widths or worn high on the bridge for attitude.

Care & longevity

• Coated outerwear: Hand wash cold, mild soap, no bleach. Air dry flat away from heat. Avoid dry cleaning solvents that can strip polyurethane. Store on a broad hanger to protect the hood shape and keep coatings from sticking.

• Cotton‑nylon trousers/shirts: Gentle machine wash cold, inside‑out, line dry. Low iron on reverse if needed.

• Stretch denim: Gentle cycle, cold, inside‑out to preserve finish. Line dry to protect elastane recovery.

• Mongrel boots: Hand clean uppers with a damp cloth; let dry naturally. Do not machine wash or force‑dry.

• Eyewear: Rinse dust, then microfiber wipe; stow in the magnetic case to protect the brushed finish.

Heritage & today

Founded in Rome in the mid‑2010s by American designer Justin Gall, the label developed through small Italian runs while showing digitally on the Milan schedule before moving to a physical runway with the MURK collection in January 2022. Subsequent chapters kept the narrative tight—VEIL (SS23), SOIL (AW23), GAWK (AW24, including womenswear by appointment in Milan), LORN (SS25), and RAWT (AW25). Across seasons, the work stays consistent: modular patterning, hand‑mixed, water‑based artwork translated into textiles, and an insistence on Italian make for both soft goods and hard goods.

Responsibility, in practice

Gall works in small batches in Italy, favoring local production and pre‑order windows to reduce oversupply. Many graphics and finishes are hand‑painted with water‑based media and dried naturally, a slower process that minimizes energy use and makes each piece read slightly singular. The brand communicates process and provenance plainly; it does not publish third‑party certifications, so evaluate impact through materials, make, and longevity.