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By Malene Birger – Long wool coats, Derris shirt, Abilla tote
Copenhagen-born since 2003, By Malene Birger refines a modern, bohemian‑minimal wardrobe: long wool coats, easy column skirts, soft tailoring, and quietly structured leather bags. Expect elongated lines, generous sleeves, and knit sets that skim rather than cling. Under new creative direction, the house keeps its creamy neutrals and tactile textures but edits silhouettes for crisp movement—pieces that read calm at a glance and considered up close.
Silhouette & construction
Outerwear: long, light, enveloping
Coats fall in clean columns with eased shoulders and deep vents. Double‑faced or brushed wool‑mixes keep weight down while holding a sculptural line. Funnel necks and shawl collars frame the face; sleeve heads are relaxed so layers sit smoothly.
Tailoring and trousers: softened precision
Single‑breasted blazers run straight through the body with a gentle nip at the waist. Pleated trousers drop from a regular rise into a straight or subtle flare, with hems designed to skim loafers or a slim boot. Internal waistbanding steadies the fit; pockets lie flat so the leg remains uninterrupted.
Knitwear and dresses: drape with discipline
Ribbed viscose‑blend skirts and tops create a long vertical line; mohair‑ and alpaca‑rich sweaters add haloed texture without bulk. Slip and column dresses use bias‑leaning cuts, side slits, and adjustable straps to fine‑tune length and movement.
Bags and small leather goods: quiet structure
Leather totes carry soft volume with slim handles and minimal hardware. The brand’s monogram appears on select coated styles and silk scarves, used sparingly to add pattern to a neutral wardrobe.
Materials & finish
Wool, alpaca, mohair
Coats and plush knits use wool‑and‑alpaca blends for warmth and loft; mohair yarns add airy bloom. The hand is dry rather than glossy, so texture reads refined. Natural hair fibers may gently shed at first wear; brushing lightly and resting between wears reduces transfer.
Organic cotton shirting
The Derris shirt is cut in crisp organic cotton. The fabric has a cool hand and a dense weave so the oversized shape holds its edge, then softens with laundering.
Viscose rib
The Merine rib skirt and matching tops deploy a viscose‑polyamide blend for clean recovery and a smooth drape that skims, not squeezes. Asymmetric hems and cut‑outs are small but intentional—movement without noise.
Leather and coated textiles
Everyday totes appear in full‑grain cow leather with a naturally pebbled texture, alongside Signature Flower coated‑canvas styles trimmed in leather. Leather options emphasize longevity; coated pieces give pattern and weather resistance with less weight.
Signatures & icons
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Derris shirt: oversized organic‑cotton button‑down with dropped shoulder, chest pocket, curved hem.
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Merine rib skirt: mid‑rise column in compact rib with subtle asymmetric hem; builds an instant knit set with matching tops.
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Abilla tote: oversized leather carryall with slim top handles and internal pocket; also interpreted seasonally in grain leather and, in the accessories line, coated monogram fabric for lighter days.
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Signature Flower accessories: small goods, silk squares, and coated totes printed with the graphic house monogram.
How to wear it now
Weekday, desk to dinner
Derris shirt tucked into straight wool trousers, Merine rib cardigan over shoulders, leather loafers. Add the Abilla tote; slip a silk monogram scarf through the handle for pattern.
Evening texture shift
Bias satin column skirt with a cropped mohair‑blend sweater. Long single‑breasted coat on top; minimal hoop earrings keep the line clean.
Weekend city walk
Relaxed cashmere‑touch knit set with a trenchy wrap coat. Coated monogram tote for weather‑proof carry; slim sneakers or a low boot.
Travel, light layers
Viscose rib skirt + tank, oversized shirt left open as a soft jacket. Leather tote for laptop and a scarf that doubles as a wrap on the plane.
Fit & sizing notes
Coats and jackets: Designed for ease through the shoulder and sleeve. Take your regular size for the intended drape; size down only if you want a neater shoulder or plan to wear lightweight layers.
Shirts: Derris runs intentionally oversized with a dropped shoulder. If you prefer a trim line, one size down keeps sleeve length generous but tidies the body.
Trousers and skirts: True to size through the waist; legs fall straight or with a slight flare. Rib skirts are close to the body but forgiving.
Knitwear: Mohair‑ and alpaca‑rich pieces are voluminous by design. Expect relaxed lengths and longer sleeves that pool at the wrist.
Bags: Abilla leather tote is oversized; the cavity easily holds daily carry and a 13–14″ laptop with room to spare. Slim handles are proportioned for hand or shoulder.
Care & longevity
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Wool and alpaca outerwear: Dry clean as labeled; brush with a garment brush between wears to lift surface dust and preserve pile. Store on wide hangers; avoid overstuffing pockets.
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Mohair/alpaca knits: Rest between wears; depill sparingly with a sweater comb. Hand wash cold in a mesh bag or dry clean per label; reshape flat. Light initial shedding is normal and subsides.
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Organic cotton shirting: Machine wash cold, buttoned and inside‑out; shake and hang to dry for a crisp finish with minimal pressing.
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Viscose rib: Follow label; many styles specify dry clean to maintain surface and hem shape.
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Leather bags: Wipe with a soft cloth; condition infrequently with neutral cream. Stuff and store upright in a dust bag; keep out of direct sunlight.
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Coated monogram: Clean with a damp cloth; avoid solvents and high heat.
Heritage & today
Founded in Copenhagen in 2003 by designer Malene Birger, the label helped codify Scandinavian ease for an international audience. After the founder’s exit from day‑to‑day design, a new era began in 2020 that sharpened the brand’s bohemian‑minimal codes and expanded knit sets, long coats, and refined totes. In late 2024–2025 the house confirmed a creative transition: owner Emilie Martinsen‑Kønigsfeldt assumed creative direction, with seasonal collections and presentations continuing from Copenhagen and lookbooks published across the year. The wardrobe remains consistent—earth‑leaning palette, tactile materials, restrained hardware—now calibrated by a studio focused on longevity and wear.
Responsibility
The brand states a preference for renewable, natural fibers and targets by 2030 to use materials that are certified, recycled, fast‑renewing, and/or biodegradable where possible. It is an active member of the Leather Working Group for leather sourcing, and since 2021 cites adoption of Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) for animal fibers. Responsibility sits at material choice and make, with country of origin detailed on each garment’s label. Evaluate impact by composition, certification notes, and planned wear per piece.